The weekend of October 18th Matty and I packed up the trusty Subaru wagon with our camping gear, some good eats, and the coolest dog in the world and set off for the Dolly Sods Wilderness, West Virginia. For the next three days we would wander through some of the finest wilderness we have ever experienced. Danger lurked around every corner or the WWII artillery field (yes there are still live munitions out there somewhere). Then we departed the hills of WV for the Fall Foliage of Skyline Drive and the pancakes with blackberry syrup at the Big Meadows Lodge.
Friday October 17th
We arrived at Cracker Barrel around 8pm and were were hungry! If I told your that were just going to the Cracker Barrel for a filling dinner I’d be lying. Our primary objective was to acquire several of their miniature bottles of maple syrup for our pancake breakfast on Sunday morning. We had a wonderful waitress that gave us more than we needed. Even Chloe didn’t leave there empty handed. She feasted on someones cornbread they decided to leave just lying in the parking lot (what a waste!). So after a couple more hours of driving, a small detour, and fearful that we were being followed by a killer at 12:30 am we arrived at the rocky dirt road that took us over 3000′ up the moutain we’d be hiking from in just a few hours. Since there was no camping allowed near the parking area we threw everything in the front of the car and froze our tails off in the back of the car. Since Matty was too big to fit we had to leave the tailgate open.

First night
Saturday October 18th
We awoke to freezing temperatures and a glorious sunrise. The view was amazing, you could see for miles in all directions. We scrambled to get out stuff organized and eat a breakfast of frosted mini wheats before setting off down the trail. We spent the morning trudging through a boggy wasteland. It wasn’t too bad though, I can only image what it must be like in the wet months of Spring. I’ve never been to the Canadian wilderness myself, but Matty testified to what the guidebooks said about the landscape resembling that of the barren Canadian lands. I spent most of the day grumbling about all of the leaves being off of the trees. I was fully expecting to see peak foliage but most of them had already fallen.
By noon we were out of the bogs and starting to follow Red Creek, the same creek we would be spending the night at. After a restful lunch in a bed of pine needles and leaves we headed on. At some point we missed a turn and ended up having to hike over <ROCKY MOUNT>, the one trail I did not want to experience, oh well. So we caught another trail down the mountain into “The Forks”. I think we might have been a little south of them actually, it was hard to tell because the water level was lower than the spring and summer months. This area is known for its swimming holes and is a popular destination because of its proximity to several trail heads. On our way to the forks we were met by a stray dog that had been tagging along with another group of hikers. We were pleasantly surprised when we found her again at our campsite. Matty named her Dolly, and she spend the might playing with Chloe and eating the treats we gave her.
We made it to camp around 4pm and had plenty of time to relax and make dinner. Matty had just gotten a new hammock and was filled with the same level of excitement to set it up as I was when I first got mine. There is something wonderful about relaxing in a hammock after a good days hike. I opted to stretch out on a rock with Chloe in the middle of the creek. I find lying in the middle of a mountain creek to be one of the most relaxing things in the world. Maybe someday I will build a creek that runs under by bed. Dinner that night was a bountiful helping of Tuna Helper and hot chocolate. It was another cold night, thankfully we gathered plenty of wood for the fire.
Sunday October 19th
When we got up today the tent was covered with ice. But that was ok because we were going to have pancakes. It was the first time I ever tried cooking pancakes over my backpacking stove. After failing miserably with the first one, I figured it out and we feasted on miniature pancakes with chocolate chips. The morning hike was uneventful, somewhat boring, and very tiring as we headed back up the mountain we came down the previous day. It wasn’t too bad though, the trail was wide and the grade was even. We found a wonderful little spot to have lunch by a small creek. We set up our hammocks there and had some apples. Later I would find that in a hurry to get warm I left the ropes to my hammock tied to the trees (so much for leaving no trace).
About an hour later was when the fun started. Let me mention that the trails in the Dolly Sods are no longer marked, any blazes on trees are long gone and the only thing to go by is the trial and the occasional cairns. So…Matty is blazing the trail and I’m just following along not paying any attention. We leave the woods and get back out into bog land like we had experienced the previous morning. At some point Matty realizes we are not on the trail anymore. So what do I do? Pull of my trust GPS of course (which we probably should have “consulted” a little sooner). To make a long story short, we spent the better part of an hour bushwacking in attempt to cross over the trail. I later found that we were very close, but ultimately we decided just to backtrack our way out (which I highly suggest for anyone who has a similar experience someday).
After we got out, we were both thankful that we were alive and hadn’t detonated any artillery shells. I was starting to feel the burn and we still had many miles to the campsite we were trying to reach. After another short rest and hike along a beautiful mountaintop where we saw about 50 people, one of which asked matty if he was going skiing (ski poles), we arrived at a massive formation of rocks. I plopped down and matty climbed to the top and took some pictures. It was getting dark and we were tired and out of water. Filled with the realization we were not going to make it to our chosen destination by dark, we called it quits at a small campsite on top of the mountain. It was so cold that we ate whatever food we had left and went straight to bed.
Monday October 20th
Today started at the crack of dawn. We had everything packed and were back on the trail in time to watch the sun come up. It was cold again but it felt nice to get moving. As we hiked over a few mountain tops we got to see the sun rise several times, that was neat. I took some nice pictures. After a short rest, we finished our hike by retracing the same route we took on the way in. I was pretty exhausted and glad that we were done. We ended up hiking just over 26 miles. The drive back to civilization took us about half an hour down a dirt/stone mountain road. After a quick pit stop at the Seneca Rocks Visitor Center we headed straight to Skyline Drive.

Poor Chloe was shivering

Cold Campsite
We longed to find a Diner along the way to fill our empty stomachs. I thought for sure a town such as Harrisonburg would have a diner, but when we asked the local grocery clerks they gave us less than stellar directions. I decided to settle for McDonalds, and Matty Subway. Chloe enjoyed her portion of my fries. I always crave fast food after a good hike; and the double cheeseburger and coke really hit the spot.
It was about 3:00 when we arrived at Big Meadows and got settled into our campsite. It was Matty’s first time in the Shenandoah, and even though he contained his excitement very well I knew deep inside he longed to chase the flocks of deer as he once did in the hit film “The Redneck Reality Show”. The rest of the day was filled with good memories:
- After I took precautions of securing my hammock (remember I lost the real rope, and had to use nylon “string” instead), I assured Matty that I would not be harmed as I reminisced of the time I hung my hammock over a tree stump that surely would have impaled me had I fallen. In the next breath I found myself crashing to the ground; apparently the standard rigging from the factory was incorrect, and the rope securing my hammock to the tree came undone. Lesson learned: use discretion when hanging hammock over objects you would not normally enjoy falling on.
- Dinner was amazing, we had beer brat & cheese mountain pies
- Dessert on the other hand was “interesting”. Matty was struck with a creative idea, that I admit sounded delicious but in practice was an utter failure. Anytime you combine marshmallows and a king size snickers bar inside of a flaming cast iron furnace you can expect to watch all of the marshmallow and caramel spew into the fire below.
- For after dinner entertainment we went bear hunting, I am now 3 for 3 on attempted bear sightings. We also saw the same deer 4 times as we drove by. On the way back into the campground we spotted a skunk.
Sunday October 21st
All good things must end, and today we had to head home. I was up at the crack of dawn and rather than fall lazily back to sleep I decided to head out to the visitors center and take some pictures. After the sun came up I could not but help from wondering the meadow for the next hour and a half. It was fun to experiment with photography and enjoy the beautiful morning God had blessed us with. After a pit stop for a cup of Joe, I summoned Matty and we we headed to the lodge for a delicious breakfast. This was my third time eating there, and I did not leave disappointed. It was a beautiful morning and we enjoyed the view as we ate.
We spent some time in the visitor center before heading out. We watched the file “The CCC Boys”. It was interesting to learn more about the CCC Camps that were responsible for creating what we now know as skyline drive and other national parks across the country. The drive home was long and pretty uneventful. Overall it was another successful trip without incident.
View More PIctures